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Glass Tips & TricksNewsletters from our past converted to fresh articles about stained glass.
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Repairing A Stained Glass Panel Using A Dremel Tool
We don't love to do leaded glass repairs, but a friend had a piece that had been shattered so we agreed to fix it. Because it would be so much work to remove it from the frame and disassemble the lead to do the repair in the traditional method, we decided to do the repair using a less standard way.
We couldn't have done it this way if the lead in the window wasn't in very good shape.
We couldn't have done it this way if the lead in the window wasn't in very good shape.
Working on the back of the panel, I used a Dremel tool to cut half way through the lead. I wear a dust mask or respirator when working with lead came.
I continue around the piece, splitting the lead in half. It takes a long time and much patience to get through the lead using a Dremel.
Then I use small screwdrivers to pry away the lead half that covers the broken piece of glass and scrape away the old cement.
I pick out the cement in between the lead and the glass as well.
When I'm ready to pry the glass out of the window, I tape both sides of the glass so it won't fall apart.
With the broken piece removed, I can clean the empty space even better.
Here is the broken piece which I used as a pattern and the traced design for the new piece.
I cut the glass with a hand cutter.
With a trial fit, I find places that need to be trimmed and mark them with a black Sharpie.
Then I grind those spots.
I then put the glass in place and mark where I want the new lead line to match up with the old lead line below.
I use that mark to align the copper foil which will go on the top of the glass.
With the copper foil in place, you can see how the finished piece will look.
I then bend the old lead over the foil.
On one side I use a mallet and stick to coax the lead back in place.
Then I apply flux liberally to the lead that needs to be repaired.
In one spot I find it very difficult to get the solder to stick to the old lead.
To get the solder to stick, I use a wire brush on a drill to really break up the old oxidation on the lead.
Then it sticks pretty well.
On the front of the repaired window it's almost impossible to see where the panel was broken.
On the backside, the repair blends in pretty well, almost unnoticeable.