Gomm Studios   (385) 392-7989
Gomm Stained Glass
  • Home
    • Fun Quiz Page
  • Projects
  • Classes
    • Learn More About Studio Classes
  • STORE
    • Art 4 Sale
    • Amazon Shop >
      • Store-Books
      • Store-Videos
      • Store-MiscProductsWeUse
      • Store-VideoandAudio
      • Store-StainedGlassSupplies
    • Etsy
    • Tips Articles >
      • Fixing Windows >
        • Repairing Severe Damage
        • Repairing A Broken Piece Of Glass
        • Fixing A Small Break In A Big Piece Of Glass
        • Faking A Repair
        • Doing A MAJOR Repair
        • How To Repair A Leaded Panel
        • How To Repair Stained Glass That Has Separated
        • How To Rebuild A Leaded Glass Window W/ Copper Foil
        • How To Repair A Moderately Broken Art Glass Panel
        • How To Repair An Insulated Stained Glass Window
        • Changing the Border Glass In a Leaded Panel
        • Repairing A Stained Glass Panel For An Artist
        • Repair Using A Dremel Tool
        • Quick(er) Lead Repair
      • Tricks Of The Trade >
        • Insulating Glass So It Can Be Hung In A Door
        • Moving And Handling Glass
        • Cutting Diamonds On Very Rough Glass
        • How To Add Coining To A Panel For A Very "French" Look
        • How To Shorten A Stained Glass Panel
        • How To Trim And Cut A Stained Glass Panel That's Too Long
        • How To Build A Jig To Help Cut Bevels
        • How To Cut Stained Glass Without A Pattern
      • Reinforcing and Framing Glass >
        • Reinforcing A Large Panel
        • How To Aggressively Reinforce A Window
        • Soldering A Zinc Edge On A Panel
        • How To Solder A Reinforcing Edge On A Curved Panel
        • How To Put Metal Around An Octagon Shaped Panel
        • Building A Frame For Stained Glass Shutters
      • Shipping Stained Glass >
        • How To Ship Big Stained Glass Panels
        • How To Build A Solid Shipping Crate
        • How We Crate Same Size Multiples of Glass
        • How To Build A "Double Foam" Crate
        • Loading Glass On A Trailer
      • Lighting Projects >
        • Installing Art Glass In A Pool Table Lamp
        • How To Build A Panel For A Backlit Space
        • How To Reinforce A Stained Glass Skylight
        • Creating A False Skylight
        • Building A Four Sided Lamp
        • Repair A Cheap Lamp Shade
        • Building A Stained Glass Lamp With A Worden Mold
      • Installing Stained Glass >
        • How To Install Stained Glass in an Existing Window Frame
        • How To Install Stained Glass In A Cabinet Door
        • How To Hang A Stained Glass Window
        • How We Install A Panel In An Arched Window Opening
        • What Ttype Of Caulk To Use
      • Sandblasting Stained Glass >
        • How To Sandblast Stained Glass
        • How We Sand Carve A Stained Glass Transom
        • Setting Up A Sandblast System
        • How To Sand Carve A Rose In Glass
      • Organizing Your Studio >
        • Build Your Own Work Bench
        • Chemicals We Use In Our Studio
        • Getting A New Glass Order
        • Build Your Own Stained Glass Rack
        • Converting To A Lead Free Studio
      • Bring New Life To Windows >
        • Removing Corrosion From Stained Glass
        • Re-Apply Patina To Stained Glass
        • How To Clean A Really Dirty Window
        • Clean And Apply Patina To Stained Glass
        • Cleaning And Adding Patina To A New Stained Glass Panel (revisited)
        • Easily Clean Corrosion Off Of Stained Glass
      • Unusual Projects >
        • Building A Stained Glass Globe
        • The Painted Leaf Project
        • How To Paint A Face On Stained Glass
        • Fusing A Stained Glass Necklace
        • Building A Stained Glass Picture Frame
        • Building A Stained Glass Jewelry Box
        • Make Stained Glass Charms
        • Repairing A Stained Glass Angel By Making Our Own Glass
      • Soldering Techniques >
        • Fix or Reinforce Glass With A Solder Bridge
        • How To Solder For A Stained Glass Repair
        • Reclaiming Old Flux Core Solder For Use In Stained Glass
        • Soldering Technique-Fixing A Foil Problem
      • Basic Skills >
        • How To Cut Stained Glass
        • How To Cut Stained Glass with a T-square Cutter
        • How To Cut A Tight Curve In Stained Glass
        • Cutting Very Thin, Irregular Stained Glass Pieces
        • Cut Glass Using A Straight Edge
      • Advanced Craftsmanship Skills >
        • Cut Glass Using A Taurus Ring Saw
        • Drill Holes In Stained Glass With Diamond Drillbit
        • Drill Holes In Stained Glass With A Grinder
      • Business Tips >
        • Marketing Stained Glass
        • Helping Your Stained Glass Business (And Yourself) Survive With Style
        • Mistakes Happen To Us All (And Then We Fix Them)
        • Converting To A Lead Free Studio
    • Training Videos & Books >
      • Gomm Studios Portfolio 1
      • Stained Glass Mandalas For Meditation
      • Stained Glass Mandalas For Success
      • Beginning Stained Glass
      • Stars, Stars and More Stars
      • How To Install Stained Glass
      • Stained Glass Picture Frame
      • Stained Glass Jewelry Box
      • Stained Glass Kaleidoscope
      • Stained Glass Charms
      • Stained Glass Projects For The Whole Family
      • Stained Glass Fan Lamps and Night Lights >
        • Fan Lamp Class Extras
      • Stained Glass Seasonal Quilt Blocks
      • Stained Glass Desk Sets
      • Stained Glass Stars
      • "Blinders" David's SF Novel
    • Videos
    • Patterns
    • Greeting Cards
  • About Us
    • Instagram
    • Shows And Galleries
    • History Of Our Studio
    • Articles About Us
    • Links
    • Contact Us
  • Patreon
  • 5 Ways To Thrive
Picture

Glass Tips & Tricks 

Newsletters from our past converted to fresh articles about stained glass.
Picture

Building A Stained Glass Lamp With A Worden Mold

Picture
There are two parts to the Worden system of lamp molds. One is the rigid Styrofoam form and the other is the pattern pieces and magic strips that guide you as you build the shade.  

By dividing the pattern and the mold apart, stores can carry all their product line without taking up too much space.



Picture
I first used silicone caulking to glue the magic strips to the mold. The caulking didn't cure, so after two or three days, I peeled them off and carefully scrubbed them with a small amount of water to get the bad silicone off the strips. Then I placed a heavy book on them as they dried so they wouldn't warp.

Picture
As you prepare to do a lampshade, you won't have to make the same mistake I did. You can start by lining up the cut out magic strips on paper to contain your mess.

Picture
Then spray a moderate layer of glue just on the part of the mold marked for the first magic strip.

Picture
Then press the magic strip in place. You'll find that if you use care and patience, smoothing the strip over and over, it will begin to stick well. 

Picture
Work your way up the mold, spraying and applying each strip one at a time.

Picture
Pay attention to how the strips line up with each other as well as the guide markings on the mold.

After all the strips are in place, you may want to apply wide, clear tape to the entire surface, to further hold the strips down and to provide some small protection for the mold, from dripping solder and flux.
Picture
Above are two molds. The one on the right is the mold we've been working with, covered in tape to protect it. The one on the left has been used and not prepared or protected. There are many holes melted right through the mold from solder drips.
Picture
We finished cutting out the pattern pieces at the end of last months newsletter.

Picture
We're building 2 lamp shades, each has six lamp sections, which means that we need to cut out 12 of each piece of glass. Jeanne uses a ruler to help in laying out the pieces, we can't afford to waste any glass.


Picture
We choose to do two colors in the field of the lamp shade. A lighter tone at the bottom and darker at the top. The lighter glass took up an entire sheet of glass. 

Picture
So, we get to the cutting.

Picture
This is my favorite part, but hundreds of pieces later, I'm pretty worn out and we still haven't cut them all! 

Picture
As a way to organize, as we grind the pieces, they get sorted into 12 bags so that we can work with one set at a time.

Picture
Here is the inside of a bag of parts. When drying the glass, the numbers often came off and we had to rewrite them.  


 Our friend and student, Sarah, has been helping with the grinding and foiling.


Picture
Next, we take the mold and trace it's edge so a pattern board can be prepared to keep the glass pieces on the edges of the mold. 

Picture
I cut them out. 

Picture
And pin them to the edges of the mold.

Picture
Then the job of placing the glass onto the mold began.

Picture
The job is time consuming and quite enjoyable.

Picture
I place pins around the glass but avoiding joints so that I won't solder the pins in.

Picture
As the pieces get put in place I have to balance the pieces so that they line up with each other. The connection pieces are left out till the panels are all tacked together.

It's a long process to build lampshades. I love the process, it's such a beautiful result when complete. I started building these lampshades in January, and completed in April in between working on other projects. This newsletter didn't get sent out in March when it was due because I didn't have all the pictures to go with it. What a joy it is to craft the panels.

Picture
Now, with the mold prepared and the pieces cut and foiled, they can be set out on the mold.  


First a row of pins is set out on each end of the mold. Pieces are set in place and pins are pushed in to keep pieces aligned.


Picture
A view of the edge shows the many pins needed to hold the pieces in place. 


Since the pieces are flat and the mold is rounded, they must be held so that they are at angle to the other pieces, achieving as close to rounded as possible. 


Picture
The first panel, is held by pins to insure that each of the pieces fit.  


After they are all fitted in the first panel, subsequent panels just get the pieces set in place and then tack soldered. This saves a great deal of time and pain from pushing pins into the mold.


Picture
With them all in place, they get tacked together.

Picture
The flux is added, gravity works to cause the flux and melted solder to run downhill so care must be taken not to make a mess.

Picture
Care must be taken not to solder the pins onto the lamp panel.

Picture
After tack soldering, the pins get pulled out. The pins at the top and bottom are left in place because they'll be needed as the other panels are constructed.

Picture
Pieces of foil are used to fill gaps in the grape section so as to avoid melting the lamp mold with hot solder. 


 We used glass globs to create our grapes. I think next time I build a shade, I'll cut the glass pieces out so that we get a tighter fit.


Picture
Once the panel was tacked, I soldered it on the outside, leaving the inside untouched so it would be more flexible. 

 When I got a second panel soldered and did a test fit, I found that they weren't as flexible as I like, so the rest of the panels were only tacked.


Picture
Here's the completed panel, ready to be assembled into the complete shade.

Picture
The panel is curved and slips easily off of the lamp panel.

Picture
Then the panel is laid in a box full of crumbled paper which supports it.
Picture
The assembly process begins once the 6 panels are tacked together. When lining up the first two panels, I line up the top and then a little farther down.

Picture
Once I get the lower piece lined up, I tack solder it in place. 

Picture
Then I move up to the top and line those pieces up. 

Picture
Then as I move down the shade, I carefully and gently bend each side to meet each other.

Picture
When they are lined up, I tack them together and then move on.

Picture
When I can't get both pieces lined up, I line them up so that they are as close as I can get them. 


In any shade, there are many places where pieces don't line up perfectly. As the lamp shade is built, it's normal to have imperfections since the flat pieces are laid out on a round surface.


Picture
When I begin to line up the third panel, I squeeze and prod the panels to get them into place.

Picture
Just as before, I tack solder the pieces when I get them lined up.

Picture
Sometimes the entire panel needs to be bent, sometimes the pieces just need to adjusted.

Picture
When the entire piece begins to feel a little wobbly, I add an extra piece to give the entire shade more support.

Picture
As the sixth panel is put in place, the tacked in piece gets attached along one side first. If you look carefully at the other edge you can see that it hasn't been aligned yet.


Picture
When all 6 panels are tacked, I begin to tack in the pieces that were left out because they overlapped. 


The tacked lampshade in very wobbly still and it remains so until the heat cap gets soldered in place.

I have to use care when moving the shade. By this time it is so heavy that pulling the shade carelessly will tear the copper foil.


Picture
Once the heat cap is ready, I inspect the lamp shade and insure that the opening is round.

Picture
The heat cap has to be soldered to the top of the lamp shade. I can't put the shade up to check for balance yet, so I have to center cap visually.

Picture
When the cap is tacked in place, I was able to pick up the shade and turn it over. Since it's just tacked I have to be very careful. 

Picture
When I place it into a box with paper for support, I can arrange to place more pieces into the shade.

Picture
As I began to work on the shade, it began to deform out of round. The box edges push too much on the sides. So I picked it up right away and set it on the table.  


It was easier to keep it round with the full support of the table.


Picture
Once I got the missing pieces soldered in, I needed to strengthen the shade since the outside edge was very weak and placing it in a box would deform it.  


 I solved the problem by gathering a drop cloth and using it to support the shade as I soldered it.


Picture
I stood to solder at this stage. I soldered the very outside edge first, the bottom 4 inches of the shade. As I finished the space where the lines were on top, I would rotate the shade so the next couple of lines would be horizontal to the world. 


 I had to be careful when moving the base, it was easy to tear off an unsoldered piece of glass, so I picked up the shade from the outside bottom to rotate it.


Picture
Once the outside ring at the bottom of the shade was soldered, it was strong enough to hold it's shape. I found that if I put the drop cloth in a trash can for additional support, it was the right size to support the shade as I finished soldering it.

Picture
It took many hours, way too many (see note below), to complete the soldering of the shade and I got it complete on the outside but not the inside in time for our show.

Picture
The nearly finished shade was an important piece in our 2011 show at the Covey center entitled "Illumination". The piece with the shade represents "The Goddess Of The Vineyard."
Note: I have learned from past mistakes in the stained glass business that if you stop work on a panel and then pick it up again, you create a lot of work for yourself. There have been times when we have gotten a rush order, dropped the current project, completed the rush and then started back on the order we pushed aside. We have learned that it always takes so much more time to get back into the rhythm of the work (remembering what we'd done, what the colors were, etc.) that we would have been better off if we would have finished the work when the rush came and spent more time after-hours on the rush rather than dropping the original work.

This was particularly true with this shade which we worked on in our spare time over the course of a year. I tacked the panels together and assembled them, ran out of solder and didn't get back to the lamp shade for several months. The shade was left, un-cleaned for those months and when I went back to the finish soldering, I was dismayed to find that the time to finish the soldering was easily seven or eight times what it would have been if I had finished it all at once. I had to really work the old solder to get the new stuff to stick and the resulting lines were okay but not as perfect as they would have been had I done it all at once.

Home

​
Stained Glass Books
​

Stained Glass Videos

​Links Page

Stained Glass
Art Therapy

​Studio Classes

OnLine Classes

​Portfolio

​Etsy Patterns

​UCAB Sourcebook

Build Your Own Table

Tips & Articles

Patterns

​Contact Us

Art For Sale

​Free Videos

Creativity Quotes​

Date Night
​
​
History Of Our Studio

​Articles About Us

​Shows And Galleries

​Join Our Email List

5 Ways To Thrive
​​

Copyright © 2016-2017