Glass Tips & Tricks 

Newsletters from our past converted to fresh articles about stained glass.

How To Build A Window For A Backlit Space

To build a window to fit a backlit space, we first measure the space and draw the pattern. Then we cut off 1/4" all around so the piece will fit when it's completed.

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We built the panel and left 1/4" of free space when we soldered it so that we could easily apply 1/4" zinc outer bar to the piece. (the 1/4" Strip fit's over the glass 1/8" and adds 1/8" so the panel is just the right size)

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I took two pieces of zinc which were longer than the panel and nailed them in place.

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Then I laid two small pieces across the spaces and marked where they needed to be cut.

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We use a Jarmac saw in our studio to cut zinc. It's preferable to a hack saw.

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I nail them all in place and then tap the ends that overlap so they will be lined up to the edge. This way, I only have to cut off the overlapping pieces on one end.

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I solder the outer bar at each corner and bring all interior lines to the edge of the zinc.

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Then I cut off the extra zinc, using the saw blade as a "guide" to keep the window lined up with the edge of the panel. 

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Then I take the panel and check it to make sure it fits the opening. It's a little long and just a slight amount too tall.

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So I take it over to the edge belt sander.

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So I take it over to the edge belt sander.

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And I sand a small amount off of the top.

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Then I check to make sure the panel fits the opening.

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Next I mark some copper for a frame edge.

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I cut it with tin snips.

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Then line it up with the edge of the panel and cut it to length.

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After tack soldering both top and bottom pieces, I mark an end piece to fit and tack solder it in place.

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When I have all four pieces in place, I solder the edges in place firmly and then I cover the copper with a thin, smooth, layer of solder. 


 Funny to cover the copper when we'll be adding copper patina to the panel, but I want it to match the rest of the piece.

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When it's done, the edge looks very smooth. We clean it with window cleaner and kwik-clean to prepare it for patina.

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Then we flood the panel with copper patina. Flooding it allows it to stay copper. If you don't apply enough, it tries to go black.

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Jeanne uses a little piece of rag to spread the copper patina around. She'll throw it away after she's done with it because patina dissolves rags.

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Then she cleans it with Kwik-Clean again to neutralize the patina.

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She applies polish and lets it dry on the panel and then she buffs it hard with a soft cloth.

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There is glass in the panel that allows too much light through and the light from a bulb "burns" through the glass.

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So I put it in the sandblast cabinet and shoot a light coat of sand to rough things up on the back of the panel. There is a layer of contact paper on the front to protect it from the sand.

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You can see here how rough it looks.  


 I didn't solder the back of these panels, but in the future I won't skip this step. It makes the window stronger.

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Look at how that small amount of blasting cuts down on the "burn through" of the light.

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The panels are installed using some small screws and the windows look great!